Friday, December 09, 2005

MEMORIES ARE MADE .. of these

Queues lined up at 9am to get in Panchenko shops; ramen soup as comfort food; Kyoto women in tradional dresses; SUMO; Ginza at night; Tea and Yukata at the Ryokan; serialized folk series on TV; young men and women with haircolour other than black; metrosexual men with nice brows; XP or Mac in Kanji version; the smell of wood kilns in Mashiko and Shigaraki; tiny hotel rooms; Japanese modern and traditional bathrooms; same while riding the Shinkansen at 300 km/hour; eating persimmons; supermarket sushi; Fall colours (especially the red maples); bamboo forrest; zen gardens; Shinkansen: the trains and the staff bowing all the time; Chefs and their bandaned heads.

Sayanora JAPAN!!!

TOKYO - last day

This is it! I managed to spend a little more time walking around the city, especially in the Shiodome section, a modern office building environment, and also got some Christmas gifts for the family.

Walked by a gallery starting a pottery auction. Some pieces were 1,000,000 to 1,500,000 Yen starting bids! Gulp!! Must reconsider what I charge for MY pieces :-)

Cheers all - and see you all in NYC very soon.

Tokyo


Tokyo
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Ginza!!!!!!

Thursday, December 08, 2005

Ginza - Tokyo

My last blogs are coming to you courtesy of the Apple Store in Ginza. My hotel nearby does not have internet connectivity, for a change.

Today was pretty much spent on the shinkansen heading to Tokyo. Very sad as this means my trip is coming to an end. Coming back to Tokyo though is EXCITING. I caught an early evening act at the KABUKI. Awesome! Plot summary to follow.

As these are my last 36 hours in Tokyo, I have a bit of shopping to do, and then will be saying goodbye to Japan.

Tokyo


Tokyo
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Kabuki theatre - Poster of the show I saw

Wednesday, December 07, 2005

Miyajima


Miyajima
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Birthday, self portrait, on the beach

Miyajima


Miyajima
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Daisho-in, reclining Buddha

Miyajima


Miyajima
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Daisho-in

Miyajima


Miyajima
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
O-torii shrine

Miyajima Island

Today's weather was perfect for an excursion to the island of Miyajima, near Hiroshima. It is accessible by train then ferry. There are tamed deer, seagulls and herons greeting you upon arrival, and if the season permits, a climb near the summit would also take you to the monkeys... but I stayed close to the shore and visited the impressive O-torii gate at low tide and upclose because by noon it and the shrine of Itsukushima and the bay between them were engulfed by the high tide.

A second shrine was the one entitled "A thousand tatami"s because it is so big. It remains incomplete but is interesting to visit nonetheless.

My favourite temple on the island (and probably the last one I will be visiting on this trip) remains the Daisho-in temple where I saw many mini-buddhas -- some adorning hats and scarves to protect them from the cold; a golden reclining buddha and a cavern illuminated by hundreds of lanterns.

A swell trip!

Tuesday, December 06, 2005

Hiroshima - Sixty years later

Once again arriving before check-in time, I dropped off my suitcase at the hotel, and after a quick lunch headed to the centre of .... the epicentre of the A-Bomb.

Sixty years after the artificial sun that destroyed this town and its surroundings, it is hard to believe this is the same place. And yet, the lesson has not been passed on, as many leaders of many countries have yet to sign the nuclean non -proliferation and such treaties.

The visit to the Peace Dome, the only building still standing after the A-Bomb, the Memorial Cenotaph, the children's memorial, the eternal flame and the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum didn't make an easy visit. Nor should they.

I walked back in silence, and somehow noticed that the buds are on the trees, and a few daffodils are blooming.

Hiroshima


Hiroshima
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Wristwatch at the Memorial museum, showing exact time of A-Bomb

Hiroshima


Hiroshima
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Sculpture at the Memorial museum showing burn from A-bomb

Hiroshima


Hiroshima
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Cenotaph, Flame of Peace and Dome

Monday, December 05, 2005

Lake Biwa and Port City of Otsu

Lake Biwa is the largest lake in Japan. It has a sister city association with Lake Michigan!

Otsu, which is South of the Lake, is where I am staying for a second night. It's a small port city, and my hotel was the perfect refuge for this weather beaten tourist-itis body of mine. My calves alone were begging for a restful day, especially after yesterday's 3 km hike in Shigaraki (ALL WORTH it babies!)

At noon today, I took a 90 minute boat ride on the Lake. Very nice, relaxing, just a bunch of tourists and senior citizens keeping me company.

The rest of the day included some slow meanders in the covered market, around the town, and resting, reading up on Hiroshima, where I will head tomorrow via Kyoto then bullet train.

Sunday, December 04, 2005

Shigaraki National Ceramics Park

Sunday's breakfast was my last meal in Kyoto. I decided to have a Japanese traditional breakfast, at my Ryokan, and it was quite formidable.The ladies of the house gave me several departure gifts, and were quite nice seeing me off. I loved staying in this traditional inn and the paper thin walls were only a problem on the last morning, as some fellow travellers didn't realize that voices carry in a ryokan. I bumped into a couple getting out of the traditional bath that morning, all blissed out.

So, goodbye Kyoto and a brief hello to the city of Otsu, where I quickly dropped off my suitcase and moved on to Shigaraki, a couple of hours into the mountains. This pottery town is well know for its beaver pottery (more on this when I upload the pictures) and the art complex has an artist in residence program as well as a gallery where I saw a very good exhibit.

http://www.sccp.or.jp/Win/English/index.html

Before heading to Shigaraki cultural park and the 3 mile round trip hike, I visited the community centre where there is a historic exhibit, and across the street I purchased some pottery tools :-)

The weather was lousy, it rained quite a bit, so an early night is in order. Tomorrow, I am planning to take it easy (?) and perhaps do a boat ride on Lake Biwa.

Sayanora everyone

Shigaraki


Shigaraki
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Telephone, near train station

Shigaraki National Ceramics Park

an open air sculpture by a resident artist

Saturday, December 03, 2005

Kyoto


Kyoto
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Bamboo Forest in Arashiyama

Kyoto


Kyoto
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Bamboo Forest in Arashiyama

Nature Walks and gardens in Kyoto

Today was my last full day in Kyoto. I took the JR train to the western suburbs of Arashiyama. There you can find the gardens of World Heritage temple Tenryuji. Unfortunately there were too many people there enjoying the beautiful grounds on a sunny Saturday. It was the first time the visitors were noisy, so I left to go to the Bamboo Forest.

The grove is quite large, full of tall mature bamboos on the side of a mountain. Sounds were hushed as we walked through them, with a gentle breeze blowing a gentle lullaby. The area is magical! This visit was recommended by a colleague of mine and rightfully so.

I left busy Arashiyama and rushed back to Kyoto to visit the tiny but lovely Raku museum (no photos allowed). Raku is a family of potters who started doing their own types of wares about 400 years ago. Each piece is hand made and trimmed; they don't use the wheel. Then the pieces are fired one at a time in small kilns. They were originally made to be used in tea ceremonies. The family is still active in the field of pottery.

In the late afternoon I went North to the Daitoku-ji complex of 20 miniature temples of which only 4 are open to the public. One of them, Daisen, has a wonderful zen garden.

Well, it's time for dinner. I will leave Kyoto to go North to Otsu and hope to get online there also and update you about Shigaraki National pottery park.

Until then, Sayanora babies!!

Kyoto


Kyoto
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Around Daitoku-ji Temple Complex in Northern Kyoto

Friday, December 02, 2005

Kyoto - Rainy Day

Today the weather was pretty miserable, the first that was not sunny and mild. So, it became a museum day. I visited the Kyoto National Museum which contains historic sculptures, archaeological excavated pieces (bronze, pottery etc..), scrolls showing the four seasons and nature, lacquered pieces, and beautiful kabuki and geisha clothes.

In the morning, I metup with my friend Nora's brother, who teachers yoga and meditation. He is currently living in Kyoto, and was gracious with his time and hospitality; he even allowed me to join his class today. Vasco also makes a mean vegetable curry and avocado salad (recipes will be shared :-)

So today ended being a lazier day.

Thursday, December 01, 2005

Kyoto


Kyoto
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Ninna-ji Temple

Kyoto


Kyoto
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Ryoan-ji Zen Garden

Kyoto


Kyoto
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Golden Temple of Kinkaku-ji

Kyoto


Kyoto
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Potter Kawai Kanjiro's Memorial museum (his wheel is on the left)

Kyoto - Walking Tour

I met with my Good Samaritan guide today, a student named Hiro, and a Londoner, Charles, for a great walk around NW Kyoto, which included the temples of Ninna-ji, the zen garden of Ryonaji and the golden temple of Kinkakuji.

We then went to the Eastern part of Kyoto to visit the house of a Potter, whose working studio and home have been preserved. Imagine a 7 chamber climbing wood kiln in the middle of Kyoto city!

Dinner was fabulous. Happened to get lost on my way back to the Ryokan and by chance found a fabulous restaurant with great wine. Cost me a pretty penny but was a nice change from the meals I've had so far.

Dear friends and family who are reading these blogs. Pictures will be uploaded when I return to NY.

Wednesday, November 30, 2005

On my way to Kyoto a spectacular view

Today was pretty much spent on travelling to Kyoto from Utsunamiya via Tokyo. It was about 4 hours on the Shinkantsen (Bullet Train) and I felt pretty much wiped out.

"Blink and you could MISS it"
I was reading my guidebook and I looked up just in time to catch Mt. Fuji. What a spectical! Actually you can see Mt Fuji for a few minutes while the train goes by at 300 km/hour but damn if you can take a nice picture without polls sticking out or wires hanging down to block your view. I think I managed to get a good "shot" though.

Arrived in time for checking in at the traditional Japanese Inn (or Ryokan) where I will be staying for 4 nights. I have booked a walking tour with the Good Samaritan group, volunteers who take you around Kyoto for free; you just pay for their entrances fees to museums and their meal. Pretty cool eh?

Mt Fuji


Mt Fuji
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Picture taken on Shinkantsen (bullet train)

Tuesday, November 29, 2005

Nikko


Nikko
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Shinkyo Sacred Bridge

Nikko


Nikko
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Detail of Three Monkey

Nikko


Nikko
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Inside Toshogu Shrine complex

Nikko


Nikko
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Gate keeper

Nikko


Nikko
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Leaving Futurasan temple

Nikko - World Heritage Site

The second reason for my stopover in Utsunamiya is that it's also near Nikko, a beautiful shrine complex set in the mountains.

I took the 7 am train -- Nikko is about 50 minutes away -- accompanied by students and reverse commuters, in order to beat the crowds. This is a holy place and there were thousands of visitors although 99% were Japanese.

This was the first day I wore my coat. The mountain air was quite chilly.

The shrine buildings are all painted red, the buddhas are in gold, and there are numerous imaginery and real animals, gods, painted on ceilings or represented in sculptures. It is possible to see all of these quite closely, but the holy shrines are off limits to photography and smokers.

There is a sacred horse who visits the 3 Monkeys shrine daily. This is the shrine that has the "See no evil, hear no evil and tell no evil" sculpture. There is a temple with a roaring draggon on the ceiling and the monk demonstrated how it roars with wooden blocks creating an echo.

Half of my pictures of Nikko are of Nature because the comlex is set in the woods. The tall evergreen trees are sublime, the maple were all red leafed, and there are brooks, and pebbles and all sorts of vistas.

It was a sunny day which made it even better.

Back in Utsunamiya, I booked my Shinkantsen for Kyoto, and I finally managed to find an internet caffe near the university town... Sayanora babies

Monday, November 28, 2005

Mashiko Gallery


Mashiko Gallery
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
pottery displayed in gallery

Mashiko Gallery


Mashiko Gallery
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
pottery displayed in gallery

Mashiko - Monday

On Monday morning, left Tokyo station by Shinkantsen (Bullet Train) to go to the Northern city of Utsunamiya; it took about an hour at 300/km per hour to get here. This is YUBA country, in other words, rolled tofu.

The reasons for my stopover are two: the first is Mashiko, the small pottery town made famous by Shoji Hamada and Bernard Leach in the first half of the 20th century. My first ceramics prof, Susan Peterson, wrote a book about Hamada. I got to see some of Hamada's works, some of the climbing kilns in Hamada's complex (the whole town smells of kilns burning) and went through several galleries of new and old styled pieces.

Taking the bus to Mashiko means learning a few Japanese idiograms as the bus does NOT have any Roman characters on it nor the bus driver understand any English. As a matter of fact, very few people in Utsunamiya speak English, not even the clerk at the internet cafe :-)

Many of my pictures of Mashiko are ceramic wares. My first purchase in Japan is my small bottle from this town. It's a high fire reduction piece fired in a wood kiln. It has a small thumb mark.

After a long journey up and down the galleries in Mashiko, I took the bus back to Utsunamiya watching the sun set.

Dinner was near the hotel, in a small restaurant row, where I had oden and spoke with the owner; somehow we managed to communicate. She was kind enough to offer me some sake.

Sunday, November 27, 2005

Departure from Tokyo to North

As I head out to take the Shinkantsen (Bullet Train) to Otsunamiya, I leave you with these words to look up as HOMEWORK. I will try to get back online and update from that fair city and tell you all about MASHIKO, the pottery town and Nikko (see the UNESCO list).

Look:

Ginza
Gyoza
Geisha

And leave a comment. Those who get three out of three correctly, get a small gift from Japan.

Imperial grounds - Tokyo


Imperial grounds - Tokyo
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Around Imperial grounds - Tokyo


Imperial grounds - Tokyo
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Tokyo - Second Day

This day was concentrated on the Central Part of town, starting by arrival at Tokyo Central station to reserve my Bullet Train ticket for Monday, a visit to the Central Post office which is open 24/7 for some stamps, then walking in the grounds surrounding the Imperial Palace ( a new structure from the sixties, which cannot be seen). Must say I've caught more Sun and Fall colours here than in NYC this year.

In the afternoon, after lunch visited MoMAT, the National museum of Modern Japanese and International Art.

Lunch was at the Dutch restaurant in the Museum! Very different from my eating noodles every night. But no problem, it's been fun.

Watched some more Sumo on TV while resting my feet. It's pretty catchy must say.

I am quite beat today so will keep a low profile for tonight and have dinner in Ikeburuko. Still dealing with a bit with jetlag.

Saturday, November 26, 2005

Shinjuku Gyoen, Tokyo


Shinjuku Gyoen, Tokyo
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Shinjuku Gyoen, Tokyo


Shinjuku Gyoen, Tokyo
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Couple looking at pond in Shinjuku's Park

Shinjuku Gyoen, Tokyo


Shinjuku Gyoen, Tokyo
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Couple walking in Shinjuku's Park, experiencing Fall's Colours

Some basics about Tokyo

Things you can avoid:
Crowds, noise pollution and smokers
People here are not LOUD. The crowds are heavy at times in the subways even on week-ends but there are times when the human traffic subsides. Smokers tend to stick to the Smoker's section.

Things you see a LOT of:
Christmas decorations/promotions and sales! Machines that sell drinks; people text messaging or taking pictures with their camera phones; food (noodle shops, restaurants etc...) Clean public bathrooms.

Things people asked me about:
Mike: yes, there are overweight people here other than Sumo wrestlers
Siroui: I'll let you know if I get gropped in the subway (yikes!)
Patricia: Ratus norvegus #14 has also landed in Japan. The pidgeons too :-(

Tokyo - first day of tourism

On Saturday - woke up at 4am to watch a little Sumo. Was able to fall back asleep and woke up again at 7am to get breakfast in the neighborhood. For about Y 300, had a raw egg, with rice and pickles. I had to pay the machine again, just like dinner last night, except today no English help, hence the raw egg.

In the morning, took JR train to Ueno part of Tokyo and discovered my first of many Starbucks. Ueno Park has many beautiful public pathways, some shrines, and several museums. I visited the Tokyo National Museum for an overview of Japanese art: lacquer ware, pottery, swords, mandalas, calligraphy and military attire.

Lunch was at the museum's Restaurant Accord.

Back on the Yamanote line to Shinjuku section of Tokyo, where I was finally able to buy an international pre-paid calling card at the famous TAKASHIMAYA store. Called my parents and then proceeded to the spectacular Shinjuku-Gyoen park. This is a serene environment, and since it's only Fall here, people are out on their Saturday walk enjoying the grounds with ponds, gardens and wild birds all over.

In Shinjuku, did some more exploration to finally find an internet caffe.

Tokyo_Ueno Park


Ueno Park
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Ueno Park Kiyomizu Kannon_do shrine

Tokyo _Ueno Park


Tokyo _Ueno Park
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Toshogu Shrine

Tokyo Pagoda


Tokyo Pagoda
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Pagoda in Ueno Park

Friday, November 25, 2005

Flight and arrival in Narita - Tokyo

The flight started at 8am on Thanksgiving day. Landed in St. Paul MN for a couple of hours, then onto a 747 to Narita-Tokyo's new airport, landing at 4:30pm on Friday. Tokyo is about 13 hours ahead of EST.

I exchanged my 2 weeks train pass for a JR PASSPORT and started using it right away. After an hour and a half on the Narita Express, disembarked in the NW neighborhood of IKEBURUKO, and thanks to a stranger, managed to find my hotel.

As many of you know, there are no street signs here. Maps are pretty good, but even the best of them are difficult to decipher at first.

My hotel room is small, but very modern. I have to tell everyone about my bathroom; it is amazing, but will have to be described in person.

My first meal was a ramen soup in the vicinity of the hotel. I left my coat at the hotel, as the weather is mild here. The noodle shops here require that you pay upfront via a machine, get a ticket, and the staff orders for you. Very interesting.

And since I hadn't slept in a day and a half, had to crash immediately.

Friday, November 11, 2005

UNESCO World Heritage Sites for Japan

Japan
http://whc.unesco.org/pg.cfm?CID=31&l=EN

Buddhist Monuments in the Horyu-ji Area (1993)
Himeji-jo (1993)
Shirakami-Sanchi (1993)
Yakushima (1993)
Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto (Kyoto, Uji and Otsu Cities) (1994) **
Historic Villages of Shirakawa-go and Gokayama (1995)
Hiroshima Peace Memorial (Genbaku Dome) (1996) **
Itsukushima (aka Mayajima) Shinto Shrine (1996) **
Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara (1998)
Shrines and Temples of Nikko (1999) **
Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryukyu (2000)
Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range (2004)
Shiretoko (2005)

Wednesday, November 09, 2005

Itinerary in Japan

Arrival Tokyo November 25th, through the 27th.
Staying at: GRAND CITY IKEBUKURO
Address: 1-30-7 HIGASHI IKEBUKURO, TOSHIMA-KU TOKYO Phone: 03-3984-5121

Utsunamiya Nov 28th and 29th (with side trips to Mashiko and Nikko)
Staying at: UTSUNOMIYA WASHINGTON HTL
Address: 4-11 HON-CHO UTSUNOMIYA-SHI TOCHIGI Phone: 028-621-3111

Kyoto: Nov 30-December 3rd
Staying at: MATSUBAYA RYOKAN
Address: NISHI-IRU HIGASHINOTOUIN
KAMIJUZUMACHI-DORI
SHIMOKYO-KU KYOTO
Phone: 075-351-4268 $FONE 075-351-3727

Otsu: Dec 4th and 5th (with side trips to Shigaraki and Lake Biwa)
Staying at: OTSU SHANPIA HTL
Address: 1-1-1 OSAKA, OTSU-SHI SHIGA
Phone: 07-7527-6711

Hiroshima: Dec 6th and 7th
Staying at: NEW HIRODEN HTL
Address: 14-9 OHSUGA-CHO MINAMI-KU
HIROSHIMA-SHI HIROSHIMA
Phone: 082-263-3456

Tokyo Dec 8th and 9th.
Staying at: GINZA CAPITOL HTL
Address: 2-1-4 TSUKIJI
CHUO-KU TOKYO
Phone: 03-3543-8211

Flight back from Tokyo-Narita on Dec 10th, 2005

Monday, October 31, 2005

Japan Rail Pass

I just purchased my 14 day rail pass... The offices for JalPack are 2 blocks away, so it was a quick stop.

Tentative itinerary:
Nov 25, arrival in Tokyo, stay there through 28th.
28th: go to Mashiko to see Hamada-Leach museum and potteries
29th: go to Nikko to see temples
30-Dec 4th: Kyoto
Dec 5th: sidetrip to Shigaraki, to see more pottery
6th: Hiroshima
7th-10: back to Tokyo

Next step: booking my Ryokan (accomodations)

Tuesday, October 11, 2005

Six weeks to Japan

Just purchased my guidebook "The Rough Guide to Japan" which is the most recent edition of any kind I could find. This week I will be buying my rail pass....

Monday, July 25, 2005

Japan 2005

I have a frequent-flyer ticket, round trip New York to Tokyo!! Departing end of November 2005!