I travelled to Cuba and China, and Turkey last night

I didn't -- but my thoughts did.

As a member of Pen America, I went to a holiday card writing blitz. About 40 of us sat around big tables, took a bunch of UNICEF cards and sent greetings to journalists and writers and their families around the world who are either currently in prison or in trial.

PEN provided the UNICEF cards, envelopes, address labels, and postage.

It was very moving to find the name of Hrant Dink amongst the names. My father who came to volunteer with me, and I wrote to Mr. Dink.

It must be said that my Dad, who normally has to be bribed to write holiday cards to family members, sat and wrote cards in Arabic French Turkish, and some in English to complete strangers in the Middle East, Africa, Cuba and China. As a retired photo journalist, he knows all about freedom of the press.

To know more about Pen, visit its sites, and start by readings its Charter.

The Website of Pen America and
International Pen

UNESCO OFFICIAL sites for Armenia

Always a good idea to check world heritage sites before travelling as they add a special flavor to trips.

In the case of Armenia, there are several sites already, and some more waiting for approval.


Check out the official site at UNESCO

Properties inscribed on the World Heritage List:
Cultural
Cathedral and Churches of Echmiatsin and the Archaeological Site of Zvartnots (2000)
Monasteries of Haghpat and Sanahin (1996)
Monastery of Geghard and the Upper Azat Valley (2000)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Properties submitted on the Tentative List
The archaeological site of the city of Dvin (#) (1995)
The basilica and archaeological site of Yererouk (#) (1995)
The monastery of Noravank and the upper Amaghou Valley (#) (1996)
The monasteries of Tatev and Tatevi Anapat and the adjacent areas of the Vorotan Valley (1995)

technorati post

Lola Koundakjian

Post Partum

I was at the airport in a jiffy, and had my last coffee at the small but active coffee bar. The security system at the new airport is very advanced; they scan your index finger as you check your suitcase and then again before boarding for your flight.
There were also lots of precautionary posters about HIV/AIDS.

In Moscow, the transfer time was much shorter and the four hours went fast.



The flight to New York however was extended to 10 and a half hours, due to wind conditions over Canada all the way down to New York.

Mum and Dad greeted me.... The only big news is that my brother had eye surgery to repair a torn retina, otherwise, all is good.


HOME SWEET HOME!!!

Last day and FINALE

On my last day, I was hoping to catch a rehearsal of the National Chamber Orchestra and say hello to an old friend, the conductor Aram Gharabekian, but it was not meant to be.

I had to say goodbye to my extended family, do some last minute gift shopping and then had a party. Artsvi and his wife Ashkhen, Tsovinar Chilingaryan, Onnik Krikoryan and Zara, Violet Grigoryan, Mariné Petrossian, Myrthe and her beau all came.

The debates were very lively but I had to send everyone home at midnight.



I slept a wink (barely!) and then went off to catch a 7am flight.

Noravank and a Concert

On Thursday, my extended family took me to see Khor Virab, the pit where St. Gregory was emprisoned, and the "Noravank" monastery.








Later on in the evening, I attended a concert by Sonya Varoujian, whose gigs I used to attend when she lived in NYC. The concert was lovely. Good mixture of Western and Armenian instruments, beautifully orchestrated. It was a blast. Thanks Myrthe!!

Check out Sonya's website. Her Armenian songs were gems.

More galleries

On Wednesday, the 25th, I had the distinct pleasure of going to two galleries: the Marcos and Sabrina Collection of Middle-Eastern arts, which contains paintings by Marcos, his collection of Iranian antiquities, and created in remembrance of his daughter Sabrina. The latter was a good friend of mine who died 20 years ago at the age of 30.

In the same building is the collection named after the author Charents. It's an exhibit space dedicated to writers of the post 17th century to present.

Composer and troubadour Sayat Nova's Kamantcha


Author Vahan Tekeyan's writing tools.





In the afternoon I met up with some additional authors, and set up a recording appointment for Friday.

National Gallery and the Republic Square

Republic Square
It's a site to be seen, beautifully lit at night, can be seen from far away and has beautiful water falls upclose. It is also nice to sit and have a coffee there and hear the clock ring every 15 minutes.

There are several important buildings here, hotel, government and the National Art Gallery, which is where I went today. In addition to its permanent collection of European, Russian and Armenian art, it hosted part of the Armenia-France exchange with many French-Armenian painters (Jansem, Carzou notably) represented. It also had in a room by itself, a painting of Napolean by JM Gros, on loan from the Louvre museum, along with a cutting of his curly bang (!)

The Gallery has several floors and is worth a half day visit.

Tomorrow afternoon, I am meeting more writers.

Another poet and an evening visit

I met up with poet Sonia Tashjian, who recorded 5 of her short poems, and was kind enough to give me copies of her work, and a good friend of hers.

Afterwards, I met up with my Dad's Cousin, Kathy Koundakjian, and we had a nice visit. At dusk we arrived at the Genocide Memorial, Dzidzernagapert, where I bumped into Prof Gabriella Uluhagian and Prof Anna Sirinian, of Bologna and Rome.

We also did a tour of "Mother Armenia" and a war memorial.

Vernissage

I was able to visit the open market named "Vernissage" which is a great place to pick up tools, souvenirs, hand-made duduks and carpets.

I bumped into Dr Sharon Chekijian of NY - while I was checking out the book section. I got a very nice copy of Ancient and Medieval poetry. The very first poem is about the birth of the Golden Child... more on this later.

I got my parents some cute hats made of carpets, and for myself a set of earrings with drawings similar to the pre-historic carvings found in Armenia.

Poetry and contemporary Armenian poets

I had briefly corresponded with Tsovinar Chilingaryan, a contact made through my old friend Onnik Krikorian, and had an opportunity to meet with her on Thursday night. Tsovinar arrived and just as I was introducing my poetry project, Onnik and Zara, another young poet arrived.

I recorded 5 pieces written by Tsovinar, who read them most beautifully, and I still feel the chills up and down my spine. The evening ended with a bottle of Areni -- dry red wine -- nicely ingested.

On Friday, I took my first day trip outside the city. I embarked into a 5 hour day trip to the pagan temple of Garni, and the Geghart monastery complex. It's the first day my camera worked overtime.

In the afternoon, I metup with writer ARTSVI BAKHCHINYAN and met his family. Artsvi read 5 of his poems for the poetry project and offered me some of his writings as gifts. At 7pm we went to a centre where he lectured about Armenians in China, the topic of his current research. It was fascinating. Bumped into some more acquaintances there such as Tom Samuelian and Raffi Setian.




Saturday morning, decided to sleep late, and worked on converting the poems into MP3s before heading to the Manuscript museum, aka MATENADARAN. There I saw Prof Peter Cowe who is on sabbatical from UCLA and doing research in Armenia. Peter mentioned that I should go to Paris since it's "L'annee Armenienne en France" through June 2007; something to consider.

Tonight another concert and hopefully a dinner with friends.

Tomorrow: Vernissage

Garni and Geghard

Today I went to the pagan temple of Garni and the Geghard monastery. I went on an excursion organized by Hyur Service. I found them very professional and the tour was comfortable. The weather was perfect and we stopped somewhere along the way to see Mount Ararat.


Garni - the approach





Geghard

Galleries and more

I am beginning to enjoy the good weather, and relaxing now that I have adjusted to the +9 hours of change.

I've been to three more small museums dedicated to the writer Tumanyan, the painter Saryan and the artist Kochar. I've been to Etchmiadzin and finally got to see Yerevan.

Tonight I am meeting a poet Tsovinar to record her. I haven't been outside of the capital yet, but hopefully will next week.

University Students

In the afternoon of Wednesday, the 18th, I had an appointment with the students of English program at the Russian-Armenian institute, to hear their sonnets.

Eighteen students read their poems. Later I made some comments regarding their work,
read them some of my own work, played some MP3 versions, and then the students asked lots of questions about my work, my writing and my points of view; interesting mix of students..

I thoroughly enjoyed meeting these young students.

Children's Art and Armenian Odar

Second night was once again disturbed by the Karaoke, but I plan to deal with that tonight.

While walking up on Abovian, I bumped into friends from New Jersey!!! Then caught an exhibit at the Children's Art gallery, which was dedicated to manuscript arts. Simply gorgeous works, mostly gouaches on large size paper represending scenes from the life of Christ. One was a three dimensional altar.



The mood is a little somber in town as a 30 year pop singer, Vartouhi Vartanyan, died in a car accident while returning from a concert. Her funeral was today.

This evening, I will be checking some galleries and bookstores, and then meeting up with Myrthe, the "ARMENIAN ODAR" blogger.

Tomorrow: Plans to visit the University and meet English language students and hear their SONNETS!

Collages, Bach and Karaoke (!)

My first night in was a little excitable, as the downstairs Karaoke was quite loud -- I thought it was the neighbors having a party. Not!

Managed to wake up by noon, and since it was Monday, visited the Paradjanov museum, the only one open today. This home dedicated to the art and life of cinema director legend Paradjanov is a little out of the way, but contains an intersting collection of his cinema life, lots of collages, drawings of his cell mates when he was jailed, and artwork donated to the museum.


In the afternoon, walked around town. I am getting to know a few of the streets now, and stopped by the Aram Khatchadourian music hall. I got tickets for two upcoming concerts: Hilliard Ensemble performing Bach, and for next Sunday, a concert dedicated to the 85th birthday of composer Arno Babadjanian.

The 1st concert was a blast. The music was beautiful, and I bumped into acquaintances: Professor S. Peter Cowe of UCLA - my thesis adviser and Classical Armenian teacher at Columbia University; Prof Raffi Setian; composer Tigran Mansuryan (see earlier blog entry about music); and Artsvi, whom I knew only by picture, and whose poetry we had scheduled to record for the Armenian Poetry project.

Artsvi and I had tea and chatted quite a bit. He is very kind and generous with his information regarding the City. He even offered me his cellphone, which I refused.

1st day: looking around the town

I have finally arrived.

The 2nd leg of the flight on the Aeroflot Topolov went well. It was an old plane, but very well piloted with a perfect touchdown at around 3:30am.

I arrived at the new wing of the airport, paid $30 for my gorgeous visa, and after dealing with the taxi mafia arrived at the Ani Hotel for my very early rendez-vous.

My hosts are very nice people. Due to unforeseen circumstances, I am renting another place and not the one previously mentioned on Abovyan.

I am staying at 8 Sayat Nova street at the apartment of (late) playwrite Grigor der Grigoryan, across the street from the Ani Hotel. It's a spaceous 1st floor apartment with large French doors, fully furnished living-room and dining room with an upright piano. There are lots of paintings in it, including a painting by Henry Elibekian dated 1976. The author's study is still filled with his books, caricatures and a spare bed.

I had a very long nap, and met up with my friend's son to give him his gifts. We had a Khorovats meal (my first solid food today), and started scouting for internet cafes. Myrthe recommended RENCOM, but the address was still in my emails.

I've informed all my contacts of my new coordinates.

Tomorrow's program: Paradjanov Museum.

MOSCOW transit

I arrived at JFK late afternoon of Friday the 13th, with the new Skytrain.
A very civilized connection from midtown Manhattan. I had plenty of time
to check in -- there were no lines at the Aeroflot counter, and enough to make friends
with Vlad, a Russian circus consultant, with plenty of questions regarding his new
Macintosh :-)

I had a good flight. I am in Moscow airport now for a ten hour transit.

Just met some Ethiopians who have lived inside the airport for four months
trying to get political refuge; sat down to chat with them a bit.

Travellers have given them and others who are in same
status, blankets, newspapers and maybe more to help
them out. There is a makeshift camp as a result, just
meters away from the luxury duty free shops.

I have added a picture of myself with the interesting ceiling which is all over
this terminal.

Music for the trip

Music -- taking some with me, and buying some there, will be an integral part of my daily life overseas.

Since I am taking my laptop which is my poetry recording studio, I am ripping a bunch of CDs for this trip. I am in a Beethoven kind of a mood these days -- maybe because it's Fall in NYC, maybe for other reasons.

While in Armenia, I want to buy some Mansuryan recordings; I don't have any of my own, but I have admired his music during concerts. Another Armenian composer I admire is Babadjanian, and I have some pieces of his. Still others to be discovered.

The other side of the coin

Please read this if you have a sense of humour.

What is it about travel that brings out exagerated longings?

The traveller feels like s/he is living a parallel life while away from the ordinary, escaping the good, the bad and ugly, while the tribe of friends and family want to see you one last time before your trip as if you are departing to another dimension?

Irina (about food)

Irina Petrosian, a woman I met virtually through the Armenian Meetup group in NYC, and who is an author, gave me some recommendations about restaurants and food in Yerevan, including the fresh fruits. As for my sister-in-law, she told me to go to the markets and buy some dried fruits. FRESH vs. DRY, the new debate.

Always good to have these "tips". Comments to follow in future entries.

10 days and counting!!!

Another recording opportunity

Tsovinar, another poet that I met through Onnik, is eager to read for the Armenian poetry project.

Recording opportunities in Yerevan

I have contacted a young author Արծվի/Artsvi and will be recording him for the Armenian Poetry Project. Sooo, that settles it, I will be taking my laptop and microphone with me.

Yerevan nights

Accomodations have been arranged, courtesy of my friends Narine and Karen.

I will be staying in an apartment, near the Ani hotel, at the intersection of Sayat Nova and Apovian Streets; a very central area of Yerevan. You can click on the image to expand it.

Armenia 2006

I have booked a flight to Armenia for 2 weeks in October. I've started looking for a place to stay and contacted Onnik, Myrthe so far. My cousin Anahid and my friend Narine have given me pointers on booking a place to stay.

I will be flying in with FFM. Excited!

2006 October plans in the making

Readers:
I haven't made any entries here in a while. There are tentative plans for a 2 week vacation in October.