Sunday, December 05, 2004

Essaouira an entrance (or Bab)


Essaouira-Bab_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira, the clocktower


Essaouira-clocktower_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira-Place Oscar Welles


Essaouira-Street scene 5


Essaouira-Street scene 5_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira-street scene with Cat


Essaouira-street scene_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira-street scene 2


Essaouira-street scene2_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira-street scene 3


Essaouira-street scene3_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira - street scene 4


Essaouira-street scene4_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira-view to North Bastion


Essaouira-view to N_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
My B&B is nearby

Essaouira - Mogador

Sunday morning -- took the bus to Essaouira - Mogador. It's my 10th day in Morocco and feeling a little tired from tourism. Good to be here by the ocean where the weather is warmer than in the middle Atlas mountains.

Arrived around 2 pm and checked into a Riad, an old home, transformed into a B&B. My room is gorgeous and has an ocean view.

Had a late lunch at a place called "il Mare"; the place being empty had a chat with the young staff there.

The city is very peacefull, no cars are allowed inside the old City, so you don't have to worry about being driven over! It's important to have suitcases with wheels here although there are porters. Mine are so dirty now from dragging them through mud that it may be time to get a new one :-)

The plan is to rest, to see a few things and enjoy the sea air. If possible I will visit Safi which is a pottery town 2-3 hours away. Might need to overnight in Casa on the 8th in order to go to the airport early on the 9th.

Cheers from the beach

Essaouira

Finally relaxing and reading a bit. Read Tracy Chevalier's book "Falling Angels"; she's also written "Girl with a Pearl Earring". I did some drawings although they're far from good.

A Dutch couple arrived to stay at the B&B, so I was no longer alone at Dar Al Bahr.

On the 7th, my birthday, I went to the beach and walked on the sand, barefeet and all. Saw some surfers, dogs, children, and collected pebbles.

Kept bumping into the restaurant's staff here and there, it's a small town, and they introduced me to their Berber friends. We talked about American music (Tracy Chapmen is still hot for them), and about all sorts of things.

I did some more shopping, and spent my birthday at the Il Mare again. My birthday cake was a slice of TIRAMISU.

On the 8th spent most of the day heading back to Casablanca for an early morning trip to the airport. The return was very long. I am home, back to reality.

Awesome trip, to be done again!!!!

Saturday, December 04, 2004

Marrakesh final day

The plans for Saturday were to pick three things that I wanted to do, but which would be different from all others I had already done (enough Madersas and souks -- until the next trip).

So, I headed for the Jardins Majorelle which is a taxi ride away from everything in Marrakesh, and well worth it. It contains a huge garden full of cacti from all over the world, and inside a excellent museum of Islamic Arts. The place is named after the French painter Jacques Majorelle who was the original owner. The current one is Yves Saint Laurent, whose collection is displayed inside the museum.

The Ensemble artisanale being closed for lunch went to another similar establishment but the wares there were not interesting really.

After lunch on Jemaa el Fna, headed to nearby Dar Tiskiwin, which is run by a Dutch anthropologist, and contains his collection of Saharan cultural items. It's a sweet little place I think it's worth a visit.

Feeling very tired. Called it an early night

Essaouira- street scene 6


Essaouira- street 6_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira_ Sculpture Garden


Essaouira_ Gardens_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira_ lunch at the Grillades


Essaouira_ Grillades_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira_View from my room early morning


Essaouira_View from room_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira- my room at the B&B


Essaouira-b&B_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira-dusk 2


Essaouira-dusk 2_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira- at Dusk


Essaouira-Dusk_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
view of the Atlantic Ocean

Essaouira-North Bastion


Essaouira-North 2_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira-North Bastion


Essaouira-North_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira-my room at B&B


Essaouira-my room_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Essaouira- Sunset at North Bastion


Essaouira-vie_200w
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Marrakesh: Jardins Majorelle entrance


Marrakesh_Majorelle_200jpg
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Marrakesh: Potter's souk


Marrakesh_Potter's souk_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Marrakesh Merchant setting up jewelry


Marrakesh_Merchant_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Friday, December 03, 2004

Marrakesh Continued

First of all, must say I miss the intense atmosphere of Fez el Bali. Marrakesh is too modern (more internet access, a few feet away from Jemaa al Fna no less), and the only place I saw too MANY DAMN TOURISTS who look like they are spending a week-end in Ibizza :-)

The flat area in the city allows everyone to easily navigate via bikes and motorbikes. It's cool to see the local women riding too.

The flat area could explain why there are many tourists of all ages (children with their parents, all the way to the golden age). It is also a place where I saw many handicapped Morrocans navigating easily in wheelchairs.

The crafts are amongst the best I have seen so far, and the prices are much higher than Meknes and Fez. My guidebook suggests I visit the local "Ensemble Artisanale" where the prices are more or less fixed. I plan to do that tomorrow.

This morning after dropping my suitcase at the hotel, and while waiting for the room to be ready, I took a cab to the famous Koutoubia, a glorious tower at the edge of the Medina, from there walked past the gardens and horse drawn carriages to the Jemaa al Fna. The courtyard is being repaired, so there aren't many merchants selling orange juice or dried fruits such as dates and figs.

Zig-zagged through the souks -- and there are several here -- towards the North, and to the beautifully restored Musee du Marrakesh. It is a home, with several exhibits of contemporary art and a collection of pottery from Fez ( far better than what I saw in that city and better displayed).

I had my first couscous because it is tradionally eaten only on Fridays, then headed back to the hotel to check in and have a siesta -- remember I hadn't slept all night.

In the late PM, headed to the Hamam in a local Riad Omar, where a women scrubbed me clean, gave me a massage and I came out feeling magnificent. I might get another one on Sunday or later on in another city.

Will call it an early night, feeling much too relaxed after that Hammam.

Cheerio

Marrakesh: Koutoubia at Dawn


Marrakesh_Koutoubia_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Marrakesh: Souk selling leather goods


Marrakesh_leather goods_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Marrakesh -- Day One

Overnight bus to Marrakesh. We had a slight delay due to some mechanical problems; so instead of 4:30 am, we arrived at dawn around 6:30 am.

My room is not yet ready, so I am going around town to experience the merchants setting up their stalls. This is a very different city than the last one; instead of the narrow labirynths and the uphill-downhill medina of Fez, it has a wide open space, and it is flat.

More later from this incredible place.

Thursday, December 02, 2004

Fez, 2nd day and departure

The weather was much nicer today. Woke up bright and early to check bus and train schedules to Marrakesh and decided to overnight by bus -- the train being a 2:30 am departure with a stopover in Casa. Not a good idea. I will arrive at Marrakesh around 5am.

Took a "petit taxi" into Fez el-Beli to the southern door of Bab Ftouh. Walked into the Andalusian quarter, and saw the door of the Mosque there, the medersa next door -- es Sahrija-- then got lost a bit in that area.

Retracing my steps, found a beautifully restored library, attached to the Kairaouine Mosque; I visited the main reading room, always drawing curious looks and met the head of administration, Dr. Ziani Ben Aissa, an anthropologist who encouraged me to continue my studies of Arab culture.

Circled around the beautiful and large Mosque of Kairaouine, and onto the historic madrasa of the Attarine, with a terrace and a view of the city. Terraces are very special here, with a good view of the city, and its cells of homes and narrow streets.

Lunch break in the Najjarine area, before visiting the fully restored Fundouk there, a wood museum (antique arms, furniture, doors, musical instruments) and a long rest on its terrace drinking tea.

Around the corner is another beautiful home, Belghasi museum, with manuscripts, beddouin jewerly and such, very difficult to find but well worth it.

More tomorrow after my arrival in Marrakesh.

Fes: Restored Foundouq Najjarine


Fes_Restored Foundouq_200jpg
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
It's a museum now.

Fes: Najjarine fountain


Fes-Najjarine_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Wednesday, December 01, 2004

Fes: Souk near Bab Guissa


Fes- Souk_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Fes:Cat in Shop


Fes_Cat in Shop_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.

Fes: Equestrian shop


Fes_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
This one's for you, Patricia!!!

Fes: Shop For Sale Sign


Fes_For Sale Sign_200
Originally uploaded by nycpotter.
Any takers?

Fez el Beli: rain rain rain

Arrived late Tuesday to Fez, another imperial city. It rained overnight and most of today. The rest of the week we expect rain as well :-(

Here in the Middle Atlas the evenings are cooler, it was the first night I needed to turn on the heater.

Had an interesting conversation in the train with fellow passengers, one of whom turned out to be the sister in law of the artist currently exhibiting at Casablanca's Villa des Artistes ( see earlier blog).

Had dinner at the hotel because I was rather tired.

On Wed Dec 1st: went to Fez el Bali, the old Medina. Started at one of the main gates Bab Boujeloud, with marvelous tile decorations. Continued to the museum of Dar Batha, an old home, with beautiful ceilings, a courtyard, a garden, and two wings with display cases full of ceramics dating from pre-history to early 20th c.

This is by far the oldest and best preserved of the cities I have visited so far, with 8-9 centuries old schools, yet there is quite a contrast between the old and the modern: young ladies in tradional garbs are sitting next to me in the cyber-cafe, flirting with others long distance. Cell phones are all over (the local telecom just went public, all you investors).

After lunch today, in a beautiful corner shop with terrace, I walked down one of the 2 main arteries, Talaa Kabira (the larger hilly road) towards several of the sites; the famous one, Medersa Bou Inania, is closed for repairs. The street is full of vendors, and many are labyrinths; difficult to avoid the fake-guides, but as my guidebook warned me I was able to discourage them; they give up after a while!

Medersa el Attarin, near the spice market is a historic site, and like many others, has a 10 dirham entrance fee (just over a US dollar, the exchange being 8.3 dh to the US dollar). Then moved on to take a peek at the Karaouine mosque which is an active one, therefore not open to non-muslims. Followed the path to the market where the skins are dyed, but the smell is pretty bad, so just continued north to exit from another gate Bab el Guissa. More rain pouring once again, and as it gets dark around 5 pm here, headed back to the new city. Hoping to have dinner with a fellow traveller who is staying nearby.

Mailed some postcards, inch'Allah they make it to you all.

More tomorrow...