Tuesday, December 07, 2004
Monday, December 06, 2004
Sunday, December 05, 2004
Essaouira - Mogador
Sunday morning -- took the bus to Essaouira - Mogador. It's my 10th day in Morocco and feeling a little tired from tourism. Good to be here by the ocean where the weather is warmer than in the middle Atlas mountains.
Arrived around 2 pm and checked into a Riad, an old home, transformed into a B&B. My room is gorgeous and has an ocean view.
Had a late lunch at a place called "il Mare"; the place being empty had a chat with the young staff there.
The city is very peacefull, no cars are allowed inside the old City, so you don't have to worry about being driven over! It's important to have suitcases with wheels here although there are porters. Mine are so dirty now from dragging them through mud that it may be time to get a new one :-)
The plan is to rest, to see a few things and enjoy the sea air. If possible I will visit Safi which is a pottery town 2-3 hours away. Might need to overnight in Casa on the 8th in order to go to the airport early on the 9th.
Cheers from the beach
Arrived around 2 pm and checked into a Riad, an old home, transformed into a B&B. My room is gorgeous and has an ocean view.
Had a late lunch at a place called "il Mare"; the place being empty had a chat with the young staff there.
The city is very peacefull, no cars are allowed inside the old City, so you don't have to worry about being driven over! It's important to have suitcases with wheels here although there are porters. Mine are so dirty now from dragging them through mud that it may be time to get a new one :-)
The plan is to rest, to see a few things and enjoy the sea air. If possible I will visit Safi which is a pottery town 2-3 hours away. Might need to overnight in Casa on the 8th in order to go to the airport early on the 9th.
Cheers from the beach
Essaouira
Finally relaxing and reading a bit. Read Tracy Chevalier's book "Falling Angels"; she's also written "Girl with a Pearl Earring". I did some drawings although they're far from good.
A Dutch couple arrived to stay at the B&B, so I was no longer alone at Dar Al Bahr.
On the 7th, my birthday, I went to the beach and walked on the sand, barefeet and all. Saw some surfers, dogs, children, and collected pebbles.
Kept bumping into the restaurant's staff here and there, it's a small town, and they introduced me to their Berber friends. We talked about American music (Tracy Chapmen is still hot for them), and about all sorts of things.
I did some more shopping, and spent my birthday at the Il Mare again. My birthday cake was a slice of TIRAMISU.
On the 8th spent most of the day heading back to Casablanca for an early morning trip to the airport. The return was very long. I am home, back to reality.
Awesome trip, to be done again!!!!
A Dutch couple arrived to stay at the B&B, so I was no longer alone at Dar Al Bahr.
On the 7th, my birthday, I went to the beach and walked on the sand, barefeet and all. Saw some surfers, dogs, children, and collected pebbles.
Kept bumping into the restaurant's staff here and there, it's a small town, and they introduced me to their Berber friends. We talked about American music (Tracy Chapmen is still hot for them), and about all sorts of things.
I did some more shopping, and spent my birthday at the Il Mare again. My birthday cake was a slice of TIRAMISU.
On the 8th spent most of the day heading back to Casablanca for an early morning trip to the airport. The return was very long. I am home, back to reality.
Awesome trip, to be done again!!!!
Saturday, December 04, 2004
Marrakesh final day
The plans for Saturday were to pick three things that I wanted to do, but which would be different from all others I had already done (enough Madersas and souks -- until the next trip).
So, I headed for the Jardins Majorelle which is a taxi ride away from everything in Marrakesh, and well worth it. It contains a huge garden full of cacti from all over the world, and inside a excellent museum of Islamic Arts. The place is named after the French painter Jacques Majorelle who was the original owner. The current one is Yves Saint Laurent, whose collection is displayed inside the museum.
The Ensemble artisanale being closed for lunch went to another similar establishment but the wares there were not interesting really.
After lunch on Jemaa el Fna, headed to nearby Dar Tiskiwin, which is run by a Dutch anthropologist, and contains his collection of Saharan cultural items. It's a sweet little place I think it's worth a visit.
Feeling very tired. Called it an early night
So, I headed for the Jardins Majorelle which is a taxi ride away from everything in Marrakesh, and well worth it. It contains a huge garden full of cacti from all over the world, and inside a excellent museum of Islamic Arts. The place is named after the French painter Jacques Majorelle who was the original owner. The current one is Yves Saint Laurent, whose collection is displayed inside the museum.
The Ensemble artisanale being closed for lunch went to another similar establishment but the wares there were not interesting really.
After lunch on Jemaa el Fna, headed to nearby Dar Tiskiwin, which is run by a Dutch anthropologist, and contains his collection of Saharan cultural items. It's a sweet little place I think it's worth a visit.
Feeling very tired. Called it an early night
Friday, December 03, 2004
Marrakesh Continued
First of all, must say I miss the intense atmosphere of Fez el Bali. Marrakesh is too modern (more internet access, a few feet away from Jemaa al Fna no less), and the only place I saw too MANY DAMN TOURISTS who look like they are spending a week-end in Ibizza :-)
The flat area in the city allows everyone to easily navigate via bikes and motorbikes. It's cool to see the local women riding too.
The flat area could explain why there are many tourists of all ages (children with their parents, all the way to the golden age). It is also a place where I saw many handicapped Morrocans navigating easily in wheelchairs.
The crafts are amongst the best I have seen so far, and the prices are much higher than Meknes and Fez. My guidebook suggests I visit the local "Ensemble Artisanale" where the prices are more or less fixed. I plan to do that tomorrow.
This morning after dropping my suitcase at the hotel, and while waiting for the room to be ready, I took a cab to the famous Koutoubia, a glorious tower at the edge of the Medina, from there walked past the gardens and horse drawn carriages to the Jemaa al Fna. The courtyard is being repaired, so there aren't many merchants selling orange juice or dried fruits such as dates and figs.
Zig-zagged through the souks -- and there are several here -- towards the North, and to the beautifully restored Musee du Marrakesh. It is a home, with several exhibits of contemporary art and a collection of pottery from Fez ( far better than what I saw in that city and better displayed).
I had my first couscous because it is tradionally eaten only on Fridays, then headed back to the hotel to check in and have a siesta -- remember I hadn't slept all night.
In the late PM, headed to the Hamam in a local Riad Omar, where a women scrubbed me clean, gave me a massage and I came out feeling magnificent. I might get another one on Sunday or later on in another city.
Will call it an early night, feeling much too relaxed after that Hammam.
Cheerio
The flat area in the city allows everyone to easily navigate via bikes and motorbikes. It's cool to see the local women riding too.
The flat area could explain why there are many tourists of all ages (children with their parents, all the way to the golden age). It is also a place where I saw many handicapped Morrocans navigating easily in wheelchairs.
The crafts are amongst the best I have seen so far, and the prices are much higher than Meknes and Fez. My guidebook suggests I visit the local "Ensemble Artisanale" where the prices are more or less fixed. I plan to do that tomorrow.
This morning after dropping my suitcase at the hotel, and while waiting for the room to be ready, I took a cab to the famous Koutoubia, a glorious tower at the edge of the Medina, from there walked past the gardens and horse drawn carriages to the Jemaa al Fna. The courtyard is being repaired, so there aren't many merchants selling orange juice or dried fruits such as dates and figs.
Zig-zagged through the souks -- and there are several here -- towards the North, and to the beautifully restored Musee du Marrakesh. It is a home, with several exhibits of contemporary art and a collection of pottery from Fez ( far better than what I saw in that city and better displayed).
I had my first couscous because it is tradionally eaten only on Fridays, then headed back to the hotel to check in and have a siesta -- remember I hadn't slept all night.
In the late PM, headed to the Hamam in a local Riad Omar, where a women scrubbed me clean, gave me a massage and I came out feeling magnificent. I might get another one on Sunday or later on in another city.
Will call it an early night, feeling much too relaxed after that Hammam.
Cheerio
Marrakesh -- Day One
Overnight bus to Marrakesh. We had a slight delay due to some mechanical problems; so instead of 4:30 am, we arrived at dawn around 6:30 am.
My room is not yet ready, so I am going around town to experience the merchants setting up their stalls. This is a very different city than the last one; instead of the narrow labirynths and the uphill-downhill medina of Fez, it has a wide open space, and it is flat.
More later from this incredible place.
My room is not yet ready, so I am going around town to experience the merchants setting up their stalls. This is a very different city than the last one; instead of the narrow labirynths and the uphill-downhill medina of Fez, it has a wide open space, and it is flat.
More later from this incredible place.
Thursday, December 02, 2004
Fez, 2nd day and departure
The weather was much nicer today. Woke up bright and early to check bus and train schedules to Marrakesh and decided to overnight by bus -- the train being a 2:30 am departure with a stopover in Casa. Not a good idea. I will arrive at Marrakesh around 5am.
Took a "petit taxi" into Fez el-Beli to the southern door of Bab Ftouh. Walked into the Andalusian quarter, and saw the door of the Mosque there, the medersa next door -- es Sahrija-- then got lost a bit in that area.
Retracing my steps, found a beautifully restored library, attached to the Kairaouine Mosque; I visited the main reading room, always drawing curious looks and met the head of administration, Dr. Ziani Ben Aissa, an anthropologist who encouraged me to continue my studies of Arab culture.
Circled around the beautiful and large Mosque of Kairaouine, and onto the historic madrasa of the Attarine, with a terrace and a view of the city. Terraces are very special here, with a good view of the city, and its cells of homes and narrow streets.
Lunch break in the Najjarine area, before visiting the fully restored Fundouk there, a wood museum (antique arms, furniture, doors, musical instruments) and a long rest on its terrace drinking tea.
Around the corner is another beautiful home, Belghasi museum, with manuscripts, beddouin jewerly and such, very difficult to find but well worth it.
More tomorrow after my arrival in Marrakesh.
Took a "petit taxi" into Fez el-Beli to the southern door of Bab Ftouh. Walked into the Andalusian quarter, and saw the door of the Mosque there, the medersa next door -- es Sahrija-- then got lost a bit in that area.
Retracing my steps, found a beautifully restored library, attached to the Kairaouine Mosque; I visited the main reading room, always drawing curious looks and met the head of administration, Dr. Ziani Ben Aissa, an anthropologist who encouraged me to continue my studies of Arab culture.
Circled around the beautiful and large Mosque of Kairaouine, and onto the historic madrasa of the Attarine, with a terrace and a view of the city. Terraces are very special here, with a good view of the city, and its cells of homes and narrow streets.
Lunch break in the Najjarine area, before visiting the fully restored Fundouk there, a wood museum (antique arms, furniture, doors, musical instruments) and a long rest on its terrace drinking tea.
Around the corner is another beautiful home, Belghasi museum, with manuscripts, beddouin jewerly and such, very difficult to find but well worth it.
More tomorrow after my arrival in Marrakesh.
Wednesday, December 01, 2004
Fez el Beli: rain rain rain
Arrived late Tuesday to Fez, another imperial city. It rained overnight and most of today. The rest of the week we expect rain as well :-(
Here in the Middle Atlas the evenings are cooler, it was the first night I needed to turn on the heater.
Had an interesting conversation in the train with fellow passengers, one of whom turned out to be the sister in law of the artist currently exhibiting at Casablanca's Villa des Artistes ( see earlier blog).
Had dinner at the hotel because I was rather tired.
On Wed Dec 1st: went to Fez el Bali, the old Medina. Started at one of the main gates Bab Boujeloud, with marvelous tile decorations. Continued to the museum of Dar Batha, an old home, with beautiful ceilings, a courtyard, a garden, and two wings with display cases full of ceramics dating from pre-history to early 20th c.
This is by far the oldest and best preserved of the cities I have visited so far, with 8-9 centuries old schools, yet there is quite a contrast between the old and the modern: young ladies in tradional garbs are sitting next to me in the cyber-cafe, flirting with others long distance. Cell phones are all over (the local telecom just went public, all you investors).
After lunch today, in a beautiful corner shop with terrace, I walked down one of the 2 main arteries, Talaa Kabira (the larger hilly road) towards several of the sites; the famous one, Medersa Bou Inania, is closed for repairs. The street is full of vendors, and many are labyrinths; difficult to avoid the fake-guides, but as my guidebook warned me I was able to discourage them; they give up after a while!
Medersa el Attarin, near the spice market is a historic site, and like many others, has a 10 dirham entrance fee (just over a US dollar, the exchange being 8.3 dh to the US dollar). Then moved on to take a peek at the Karaouine mosque which is an active one, therefore not open to non-muslims. Followed the path to the market where the skins are dyed, but the smell is pretty bad, so just continued north to exit from another gate Bab el Guissa. More rain pouring once again, and as it gets dark around 5 pm here, headed back to the new city. Hoping to have dinner with a fellow traveller who is staying nearby.
Mailed some postcards, inch'Allah they make it to you all.
More tomorrow...
Here in the Middle Atlas the evenings are cooler, it was the first night I needed to turn on the heater.
Had an interesting conversation in the train with fellow passengers, one of whom turned out to be the sister in law of the artist currently exhibiting at Casablanca's Villa des Artistes ( see earlier blog).
Had dinner at the hotel because I was rather tired.
On Wed Dec 1st: went to Fez el Bali, the old Medina. Started at one of the main gates Bab Boujeloud, with marvelous tile decorations. Continued to the museum of Dar Batha, an old home, with beautiful ceilings, a courtyard, a garden, and two wings with display cases full of ceramics dating from pre-history to early 20th c.
This is by far the oldest and best preserved of the cities I have visited so far, with 8-9 centuries old schools, yet there is quite a contrast between the old and the modern: young ladies in tradional garbs are sitting next to me in the cyber-cafe, flirting with others long distance. Cell phones are all over (the local telecom just went public, all you investors).
After lunch today, in a beautiful corner shop with terrace, I walked down one of the 2 main arteries, Talaa Kabira (the larger hilly road) towards several of the sites; the famous one, Medersa Bou Inania, is closed for repairs. The street is full of vendors, and many are labyrinths; difficult to avoid the fake-guides, but as my guidebook warned me I was able to discourage them; they give up after a while!
Medersa el Attarin, near the spice market is a historic site, and like many others, has a 10 dirham entrance fee (just over a US dollar, the exchange being 8.3 dh to the US dollar). Then moved on to take a peek at the Karaouine mosque which is an active one, therefore not open to non-muslims. Followed the path to the market where the skins are dyed, but the smell is pretty bad, so just continued north to exit from another gate Bab el Guissa. More rain pouring once again, and as it gets dark around 5 pm here, headed back to the new city. Hoping to have dinner with a fellow traveller who is staying nearby.
Mailed some postcards, inch'Allah they make it to you all.
More tomorrow...
Tuesday, November 30, 2004
Meknes, Volubilis and departure
Running to catch the train to Fez, so this one will be brief.
On Monday I checked into the hotel, after saying goodbye to Aicha, and spent the afternoon in the valley where Volubilis, one of the southern most Roman cities existed. It's only 35 minutes away with private taxi. The major industry in Volubilis (aka Walili), as seen in the archaelogical ruins, was olive oil. The oil before the Oil, in other words.
Today, I walked all over the Medina, and bought my first item, a Berber rug, absolutely gorgeous. Had lunch with Pierre, a fellow traveller, who was with me in a local Madrassa, then tea with Aicha and family, before heading to the train station.
Will update the Blog from Fez. All is good. I am staying at the Ibis hotel for 2 nights and can be reached there.
On Monday I checked into the hotel, after saying goodbye to Aicha, and spent the afternoon in the valley where Volubilis, one of the southern most Roman cities existed. It's only 35 minutes away with private taxi. The major industry in Volubilis (aka Walili), as seen in the archaelogical ruins, was olive oil. The oil before the Oil, in other words.
Today, I walked all over the Medina, and bought my first item, a Berber rug, absolutely gorgeous. Had lunch with Pierre, a fellow traveller, who was with me in a local Madrassa, then tea with Aicha and family, before heading to the train station.
Will update the Blog from Fez. All is good. I am staying at the Ibis hotel for 2 nights and can be reached there.
Monday, November 29, 2004
Meknes
Sunday night decided to go into the Middle Atlas region because the heavy pollution was beginning to bother me. Took the train to Meknes which has a Medina listed as world heritage (see previous blog).
The train ride was 3 and a half hours which meant plenty of time to talk to people. One passenger was a businessman from Fes, another was a Moroccan lady who lives in Belgium. Of course I got invited to meet her family, and I accepted knowing it is a great honour to be invited to tea. It became a delightful visit with lunch, an escorted walk to the old Medina, dinner and a sleep over!
Our hostess, Aicha, is a nurse, in her early fifties, who has 2 grown sons in Europe, one in Belgium and the other in France. She lives separated from her husband, and has adopted a daughter, Hiba, who is 6 years old.
Our lunch and dinner were absolutely fantastic, the dinner was steamed vermicelli with sugar, ground cinnamon and almonds.
The weather is cooler in this region. And the air is cleaner. Fleece is a useful second layer and I haven't needed to put on my trench yet.
Plans are to go to the Roman ruins of Volubilis today, finish the old city, and then tea with Aicha tomorrow before going to Fes.
The train ride was 3 and a half hours which meant plenty of time to talk to people. One passenger was a businessman from Fes, another was a Moroccan lady who lives in Belgium. Of course I got invited to meet her family, and I accepted knowing it is a great honour to be invited to tea. It became a delightful visit with lunch, an escorted walk to the old Medina, dinner and a sleep over!
Our hostess, Aicha, is a nurse, in her early fifties, who has 2 grown sons in Europe, one in Belgium and the other in France. She lives separated from her husband, and has adopted a daughter, Hiba, who is 6 years old.
Our lunch and dinner were absolutely fantastic, the dinner was steamed vermicelli with sugar, ground cinnamon and almonds.
The weather is cooler in this region. And the air is cleaner. Fleece is a useful second layer and I haven't needed to put on my trench yet.
Plans are to go to the Roman ruins of Volubilis today, finish the old city, and then tea with Aicha tomorrow before going to Fes.
Saturday, November 27, 2004
Casa continued
Lots of cellphones in Casablanca. Red taxis too, each town having its own colour coded taxis. The sound and car pollution is pretty bad.
Continued with my visit to the old Medina, towards the food stalls and clothes; have a few nice pix.
The older and some of the younger women wear the traditional jellaba; must say it looks very comfortable. It's quite warm for me, but most people are covered up. Young men and women walk hand in hand or arms interlocked.
People are mostly nice, some older men are a pest: ignoring them is a good way to avoid any issues.
Visited the Place des Nations-Unies, Mahomet V, large crossroads with beautiful gardens around. Saw two exhibits: the graphics of Mehdi Quotbi in a local bank's gallery, then the fibre arts of Soumiya Jalal Mikou, at the Villa des Arts. It got dark around 5pm, so I didn't finish the Art Deco house hunting.
After dark the city was bustleting with people rushing home -- quite a traffic scene -- others getting haircuts, shopping. This is why I like to travel by myself; to witness humanity, talk to people and so forth.
I seeked refuge in a nice Salon de The (I only go in if I see women inside), had my first mint tea -- delicious. Listened to a few Italian and French pop songs from the 70s :-)
Feeling quite refreshed I started walking around but wasted about an hour looking for a restaurant recommended by the guidebook but it was closed. I was very tired by then, so I proceeded to eat at a hole in the wall, which was a tenth of the cost of my lunch!!!
After dinner watched many French dubbed episodes of Alias and when jet lag woke me up -- a few torch songs by an Egyptian singer followed by al-Koran el-Kerim closing signing off the station.
This was my first day in Morocco.
Continued with my visit to the old Medina, towards the food stalls and clothes; have a few nice pix.
The older and some of the younger women wear the traditional jellaba; must say it looks very comfortable. It's quite warm for me, but most people are covered up. Young men and women walk hand in hand or arms interlocked.
People are mostly nice, some older men are a pest: ignoring them is a good way to avoid any issues.
Visited the Place des Nations-Unies, Mahomet V, large crossroads with beautiful gardens around. Saw two exhibits: the graphics of Mehdi Quotbi in a local bank's gallery, then the fibre arts of Soumiya Jalal Mikou, at the Villa des Arts. It got dark around 5pm, so I didn't finish the Art Deco house hunting.
After dark the city was bustleting with people rushing home -- quite a traffic scene -- others getting haircuts, shopping. This is why I like to travel by myself; to witness humanity, talk to people and so forth.
I seeked refuge in a nice Salon de The (I only go in if I see women inside), had my first mint tea -- delicious. Listened to a few Italian and French pop songs from the 70s :-)
Feeling quite refreshed I started walking around but wasted about an hour looking for a restaurant recommended by the guidebook but it was closed. I was very tired by then, so I proceeded to eat at a hole in the wall, which was a tenth of the cost of my lunch!!!
After dinner watched many French dubbed episodes of Alias and when jet lag woke me up -- a few torch songs by an Egyptian singer followed by al-Koran el-Kerim closing signing off the station.
This was my first day in Morocco.
Friday, November 26, 2004
Casa 1st day
Arrived safe and sound. The flight with Royal Air Maroc was quite pleasant especially because it was on time and only a quarter of the 767 was full.
We landed at dawn; I have a beautiful shot of the sun rising and a city's lights in the bottom left of the picture.
Had a short nap in the morning, then went to the Corniche for my first meal in a luxurious restaurant: what a blast eating while checking the waves on the Atlantic Coast. I had a harissa soup, a delicious tagine cooked with dates, a farina type bread served with olives. A delegation from Senegal was sitting nearby having an animated conversation about politics.
The restaurant was near the new Hassan II mosque which is a huge complex.
Proceeded to visit the old Madina, got a telephone card to call home and found an internet store to update the Blog. Cheerio!
We landed at dawn; I have a beautiful shot of the sun rising and a city's lights in the bottom left of the picture.
Had a short nap in the morning, then went to the Corniche for my first meal in a luxurious restaurant: what a blast eating while checking the waves on the Atlantic Coast. I had a harissa soup, a delicious tagine cooked with dates, a farina type bread served with olives. A delegation from Senegal was sitting nearby having an animated conversation about politics.
The restaurant was near the new Hassan II mosque which is a huge complex.
Proceeded to visit the old Madina, got a telephone card to call home and found an internet store to update the Blog. Cheerio!
Tuesday, November 23, 2004
World Heritage Sites in Morocco
In case any of you are planning to visit Morocco, here's the list of World Heritage Sites, as per UNESCO, and in parenthesis the year they were nominated as WH site.
Medina of Fez (1981)
Medina of Marrakesh (1985)
Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou (1987)
Historic City of Meknes (1996 )
Archaeological Site of Volubilis (1997) [roman]
Medina of Tétouan (formerly known as Titawin) (1997)
Medina of Essaouira (formerly Mogador) (2001)
Portuguese City of Mazagan (El Jadida) (2004)
Medina of Fez (1981)
Medina of Marrakesh (1985)
Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou (1987)
Historic City of Meknes (1996 )
Archaeological Site of Volubilis (1997) [roman]
Medina of Tétouan (formerly known as Titawin) (1997)
Medina of Essaouira (formerly Mogador) (2001)
Portuguese City of Mazagan (El Jadida) (2004)
Monday, November 22, 2004
All packed
I have packed... The weather report is 21C/70F high in Casablanca for the rest of the week :-)
Sunshine here I come.
Sunshine here I come.
Thursday, November 18, 2004
Seven days to Go!!!
Second Malaria pill down the hatch, the countdown has begun.
First and foremost: a stop at the pharmacy to get the travel basics. Anti-bacterial hand cleaners, Immodium AD, cold medicine and kleenex, and band aids.
First and foremost: a stop at the pharmacy to get the travel basics. Anti-bacterial hand cleaners, Immodium AD, cold medicine and kleenex, and band aids.
Tuesday, November 16, 2004
Malaria Pills
Yuch, yuch, yuch. The first one was pretty sour tasting; 7 more to do, that's until December 30th!
Friday, November 12, 2004
1st days in Casablanca
I land in Casablanca on November 26th, and will be staying at the
Ibis Moussafir Casablanca
tel :(+212)22/401984
Boulevard Bahmad
Place de la Gare Casa - Voyageur
20000 CASABLANCA
MOROCCO
Ibis Moussafir Casablanca
tel :(+212)22/401984
Boulevard Bahmad
Place de la Gare Casa - Voyageur
20000 CASABLANCA
MOROCCO
Travel to Morocco
I booked the flight in August, and I am two weeks away from the trip. I will be there 2 weeks, including my 43rd birthday. --
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